
Of course, with most well-groomed tipples, some have more bark than bite: The red-and-white Rubyfruit looks like a slushy swirl of Christmas but tastes kinda like a bland margarita the Hinoki Martini is presented in a large wooden box that’s garnished with hinoki tree sprigs, but wilts under the heavy $18 price tag. Conversely, the genever-spiked Meguroni comes in a simple, subdued ceramic glass, but it’s bursting with flavor thanks to its mix of earthy red bitters and whispers of buttery cinnamon notes from the aged umeshu.

Try the Gatorade-blue Calpico Swizzle, which appears to be more headachy than it is: Sure, it’s served in a fat margarita glass, but the savory sake blends smoothly with the spicy sansho pepper and fizzy champagne. On a recent Friday night, the buzzy bi-level space was comfortably crowded with hip twentysomethings chattering under noirish red lights and sipping from some exceptionally purr-ty (sorry!) Japanese riffs on classic cocktails.

Instead, you’ll step right into B-roll footage of a Master of None date scene.

The translation of this bar’s moniker is “samurai sword” kitten, but let us be the first to warn you: There are no samurai, swords, kittens or (more distressingly) any cute memes of sword-wielding samurai kittens at this Japanese-American cocktail bar.
